Alexander McQueen:Savage Beauty

Alexander McQueen has been one of my favorite designers since early 2000s.  I was saddened by his sudden passing back in February 2010.  Over a year later, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, in New York City, presented an exhibition of the iconic designer.  To all those who were able to attend, always remind yourself you were witnessing true fashion genius.

“Alexander McQueen was best known for his astonishing and extravagant runway presentations, which were given dramatic scenarios and narrative structures that suggested avant-garde installation and performance art,” Andrew Bolton, the Curator of The Costume Institute, said in a press statement. “His fashions were an outlet for his emotions, an expression of the deepest, often darkest, aspects of his imagination. He was a true romantic in the Byronic sense of the word–he channeled the sublime.”

"Mr. McQueen challenged and expanded the understanding of fashion beyond utility to a conceptual expression of culture, politics, and identity. His iconic designs constitute the work of an artist whose medium of expression was fashion. The exhibition features approximately one hundred ensembles and seventy accessories from Mr. McQueen’s prolific nineteen-year career. Drawn primarily from the Alexander McQueen Archive in London, with some pieces from the Givenchy Archive in Paris as well as private collections, signature designs including the “bumster” trouser, the kimono jacket, and the three-point “origami” frock coat are on view." - Metropolitan Museum of Art Blog

“You’ve got to know the rules to break them. That’s what I’m here for, to demolish the rules but to keep the tradition.”

—Alexander McQueen

"McQueen doggedly promoted  freedom of thought and expression and championed the authority of the imagination. In so doing, he was an exemplar of the Romantic individual, the hero-artist who staunchly follows the dictates of his inspiration. One of the defining features of McQueen’s collections is their historicism. While McQueen’s historical references are far-reaching, he was particularly inspired by the nineteenth century, especially the Victorian Gothic. “There’s something . . . kind of Edgar Allan Poe, kind of deep and kind of melancholic about my collections,” McQueen noted. McQueen’s collections were fashioned around elaborate narratives that are profoundly autobiographical, often reflecting his Scottish heritage. Indeed, when he was asked what his Scottish roots meant to him, he replied, “Everything.” McQueen’s national pride is most evident in the collections Highland Rape (autumn/winter 1995–96) and Widows of Culloden (autumn/winter 2006–7). Both explore Scotland’s turbulent political history. Highland Rape was based on the eighteenth-century Jacobite Risings and the nineteenth-century Highland Clearances, and was the first collection to introduce McQueen tartan. McQueen’s romantic sensibilities expanded his imaginary horizons not only temporally but also geographically. As it had been for Romantic artists and writers, the lure of the exotic was central to his work. Like his historicism, McQueen’s was wide ranging—India, China, Africa, and Turkey all sparked his imagination. Japan was particularly significant to him, both thematically and stylistically. The kimono, especially, was a garment that he reconfigured endlessly. Remarking on the direction of his fashions, McQueen said, “My work will be about taking elements of traditional embroidery, filigree, and craftsmanship from countries all over the world. I will explore their crafts, patterns, and materials and interpret them in my own way.” Throughout his career, McQueen returned to the theme of primitivism, which drew upon the ideal of the noble savage living in harmony with the natural world. It was the focus of his first runway collection after graduating, Nihilism (spring/summer 1994). He said of the collection, “It was a reaction to designers romanticizing ethnic dressing, like a Masai-inspired dress made of materials the Masai could never afford.”  Nature was the greatest, or at least the most enduring, influence upon McQueen. It was also a central theme, if not the central theme, of Romanticism. Many artists of the Romantic movement presented nature itself as a work of art. McQueen both shared and promoted this view in his collections, which often included fashions that took their forms and raw materials from the natural world. For McQueen, as it was for the Romantics, nature was also a locus for ideas and concepts. That is most clearly reflected in Plato’s Atlantis (spring/summer 2010), the last fully realized collection the designer presented before his death in February 2010. Inspired by Charles Darwin’s On the Origin of Species (1859), it presented a narrative that centered not on the evolution of humankind but on its devolution." - Metropolitan Museum of Art Blog

Alexander McQueen's contributions to the entire world will resonate for many years to come.  Posthumously, he is a legendary fashion icon who many around the world admired and emulated.  His fashion made you sit up and take notice.  He not only made artistic statements but he made political ones as well.  He was an irascible figure whose style was known for it's flamboyance and homage to other historical periods, which he revolutionized to include innovative and original interpretation.  This exhibition which ended in early August was an attempt to fill the void from the loss of a brilliant mind.  Let's hope many learn from his 19 year career and incorporate the themes and approaches he utilized throughout it all.

Vintage Hats

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I have a passion for hats, especially vintage hats.  Today I thought I'd showcase some hats from the early to middle 20th Century.  You can purchase some lovely vintage hats at Dorothea's Vintage Closet .

1940s Black Velvet wired asymmetrical wrapped in black ostrich plumes and trimmed with iridescent green/black coq feathers

Pleated 50s clam shell hat in black with velvet trim and bow.

Stunning black sisal 50s New Look platter hat with down turned wide brim, shallow crown and twisting black velvet band. 20" across. Wired "clip" inside crown secures to head (hair pins may be beneficial!).

Chic black velvet 60s wide brim cloche style hat with top stitch detail around deep brim.

 

Angled, asymmetrical 1970s fedora in bright stoplight red. Flipped up on one side with unusual sculpting at crown, side bow where brim turns down.

Pink silk 20s cloche with gilded details. Slubbed silk cloche has golden metallic embroidered band around crown and layer peeking from beneath around face, gathered into fan shape at one side. Small metal painted accent above fan. Lined in silk twill embroidered with name "Lady Supreme"

Japanese Street Fashion

I love looking at Fashion from all around the world.  Today I thought I'd showcase Japanese Street Fashion.  Japan began emulating Western Fashion back in the middle of the 19th century and within the past 25 years it's evolved to what's termed as "Japanese Street Fashion."

Some websites you can visit to learn more about Japanese Street Fashion:
Fashion Japan 
FRUits 

"Though the styles have changed over the years, street fashion is still prominent in Japan today. Young adults can often be found wearing subculture attire in large urban fashion districts such as Harajuku, Ginza, Odaiba, Shinjuku and Shibuya". - Japanese Street Fashion

 There are 6 main subcultures of Japanese Street Fashion.
1. Lolita:  Gothic Lolita is heavily influenced from Eastern and Victorian Goth Style.  Liberal use of dark colors, bats, spiders, ruffled or lace-trimmed blouses,knee length socks, bonnets, brooches, and a parasol are common among Goth Lolitas.
Sweet Lolitas are characterized by sweet, child-like fantasy themes. Inspired by fairy tales, baby animals, and Hello Kitty, Sweet Lolitas wear pastel colors, huge head bows, cute purses, elegant parasols, and stuffed animals.
Punk Lolitas are an experimental, deconstructed style.
Classic Lolita is very traditional. It is very mature and business-like and focuses on light colors, such as red, green, and blue.


2. Gyaru, more commonly known as ganguro, today is primarily known for huge girl-glam fashion, breaking the rules of what's considered pretty and making liberal use of man-made fashion (wigs, fake eyelashes, fake nails, etc.). Gyaru is heavily influenced by Western Fashion and styles. Gyaru is about doing what you want, and not letting anyone get you down.  Live free, have fun, be the center of attention, have high self-confidence, and be there for your friends. There are many types of Gyaru; from hip-hop to Goth. Ganguro street fashion became popular in the early 2000s.  A typical look for a "Ganguro Gal" is to wear brightly colored outfits, mini-skirts, and tie-dyed sarongs.  The Ganguro style consists of bleached hair, a dark tan, fake eyelashes, black and white eyeliner, bracelets, rings, earrings, necklaces, and platform shoes. 
Kogal (kogyaru) is based on a high school uniform, but with a shorter skirt and loose socks.  The gals call themselves gyaru.  This style was prominent in the 1990s, but since has declined.

3 Bōsōzoku: This style is caricatures of popular anime, manga, and films.  It hasn't been real popular since the 1990s.  The typical bōsōzoku member is often depicted in a uniform consisting of a jumpsuit like those worn by manual laborers or a tokko-fuku (特攻服), a type of military issued over-coat with kanji slogans. These are usually worn open, with no shirt underneath, showing off bandaged torsos and matching baggy pants tucked inside tall boots.

4. Visual Kei: This style consists of striking makeup, unusual hairstyles, and flamboyant costuming. Adrogyny is a popular concept, especially within the entertainment field, like the band Dir En Grey.  

5. Dolly Kei:  This style is newly emerging and is liberally influenced by Japan's view of the Middle Ages and European Fairytales, like the Brothers Grimm.  Style consists of vintage dresses, skirts, and sometimes religious symbols.

6. Fairy Kei: A more sweet lolita, decora blend, with the hint of the '80s, wearing mostly bright pastel colors.

Information for this post was taken from Wikipedia.

Kogyaru

Goth Lolita

Gyaru

Bōsōzoku

Classic Lolita

Sweet Lolita

Gyaru

Visual Kei

Dolly Kei

Fairy Kei

 

" A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous." Coco Chanel

I adore French Fashion and Chanel is one of my all-time favorites.  Although, I personally, prefer vintage Chanel (when Coco Chanel was still alive), I daresay Karl Lagerfeld's revolutionary vision is enticing.  His Fall collection is a mix of street urchin/hipster meets NY young socialites.  Karl Lagerfeld's trompe l'oliel "layered" jackets married a shrunken version of the classic Chanel tweedy cardigan over the boyfriend jacket.  What's interesting to note in the apparel in this collection are the arms/sleeves.  Those were eye-catching accessories with innovative variations.  Instead of wearing pantyhose on your legs, you can wear it "fingerless" on your arms.  Some sleeves were cut slightly before the wrists and then reconnected.  The dresses weren't your usual extended gowns, with puffy waists and such; instead they clung to your body.  Even one ensemble had a long sheer skirt.  Most of the models were wearing over-the-knee spiked black boots.  Hats were used liberally too.  This collection reflects the styles seen in the hipster enclaves all over the world.  It certainly doesn't reflect the tastes of those in my generation, but I'm definitely going to invest in arm and hand accessories.

Notice the fingerless sheer gloves and extremely high boots

I imagine Society Mavens will don this without the boots and arm gloves.

I don't like that the boots match the dress. Overkill.

Hipsters would love this.

I'd wear it without those shades and boots.

This mix and match doesn't do it for me.

Interesting detailing of the skirt.

I love the sequined top, but I'd match it with something else sans boots.

I guess this is the Fall's new little black dress.  Reminds me of BDSM bondage.  hehe

I like how Lagerfeld cut the upper arms out.  Trendy look.

That scarf/cowl she's wearing...I must have.  Trendy.

I can't see underneath the skirt, but I bet she's wearing boots.

I like this outfit, but I wouldn't wear it with the boots.

Why do all their sunglasses look like masks?

Very Hipster-esque. Must have those fingerless arm gloves.

No boots!

Something to wear to bed?

Classic Coco Chanel Tweed Redux.

This outfit I'd wear..including the boots.

I can imagine myself walking down St. Mark's Place in this.

Imagine the dress without the arm gloves.

We just know inside that we're queens. And these are the crowns we wear. (Felecia McMillan)

For the last two years hats have been all the rage here in NYC.  I own quite a few pairs myself.  There was a day and age when hats were every day accoutrements.  I'm not saying we're seeing a comeback, because I may be blinded by Golden Age Thinking.  However, it's refreshing to have another option when formulating your ensemble for the day.  The perfect hat can make or break the fashion statement.  There are a couple of wonderful milliners here in the city.  Today I thought I'd showcase some lovely cloches and invoke your inner flapper.  All hats can be purchased for a mildly expensive price at Barbara Feinman Millinery.

Bondage Cloche

Classic Cloche

Crochet Cloche

Sunny Cloche